ON THE INFERNALITY OF COFFEE HOUSES…
0900 by Jeff Hess
second only to oil in the rankings of the world’s most valuable trading commodity—changed how the brain functions and how people think because coffee gave us coffee houses: the first public centers of malcontents, political dissent and rebellion. A natural question would be: why would coffee houses be more politically dangerous than taverns?
In the summer of 2006 I had a short career servicing and repairing espresso machines for Phoenix Coffee. (I learned a lot but, mea culpa, all did not end well.) As part of my coffee education I read Anthony Wild’s Coffee: A Dark History, arguably the bible of coffee. Wild addressed the tavern vs. coffee house question on page 55:
On the face of it, taverns and coffee houses were both potentially places where political dissent could arise, being meeting places where open debate between strangers was inevitable. However, it is the nature of coffee to clarify and order thought, and in the nature of alcohol to blur and confuse it. A tavern might generate heated discussions, but it is likely that the contents of the debate would have been forgotten by the following day.
Adam Gopnik, writing in One More Cup Of Coffee for The New Yorker, examines a book that focuses on this aspect of coffee: Shachar Pinsker’s A Rich Brew: How Cafés Created Modern Jewish Culture. Pinsker’s book is pointedly European, political and distinctly post 17th century. Gopnik describes the book as:
…a close empirical study of an abstract political theory. The theory, associated with the eminent German sociologist and philosopher Jürgen Habermas, is that the coffeehouses and salons of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries helped lay the foundation for the liberal Enlightenment—a caffeinated pathway out of clan society into cosmopolitan society. Democracy was not made in the streets but among the saucers.
Democracy, yes, but also Socialism, Communism and the revolutions that would rock the 19th and early 20th centuries. Pinsker focuses on European Jewry but, at least as far as I can tell from Gopnik’s review, does not talk about coffee’s prior influences on Judaism such as the drinks influences on the mystics of Safed. He also doesn’t seem—in discussing the creation of social spaces—how coffee houses pulled Jews out of the social space of the synagogue and into secular space. Gopnik writes:
When social spaces were created outside the direct control of the state (including commercial ones, run for profit), civil society could start to flourish in unexpected ways. This was visible in the spread of café life through European cities, Pinsker observes, in the nineteenth century and afterward. It wasn’t that the conversations in the café were necessarily intellectually productive; it was that the practice of free exchange itself—the ability to interact on equal terms with someone not of your clan or club—generated social habits of self-expression that abetted the appetite for self-government. For Jews, with their constant habit of self-expression and their distant dream of self-government, the café was an especially inviting space.
These were spaces where members of the newly created Reform stream of Judaism (as well as a growing cadre of secular/political Jews) could pass and mingle with the general population. What intrigues me is how Pinsker focuses on place, on individual cafés, like the Café Griensteidl in Vienna. Gopnik writes:
In Vienna, the Café Griensteidl proved a magnet for “malcontents and raisonneurs,” with bentwood chairs and plenty of reading light and newspapers on sticks. The still extant Café Central had an interior like a miniaturized San Marco, with hallucinatory Byzantine columns and swooping enclosing spandrels and squinches. (The fin-de-siècle modernist writer Peter Altenberg listed his address as “Vienna, First District, Café Central.”) Yet in its prime it was a “place of politics,” and crowded with émigré revolutionaries. A famous story had Leopold Berchtold, the Foreign Minister of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, being warned that a great war might spark a revolution in Russia. “And who will lead this revolution?” he scoffed. “Perhaps Mr. Bronshtein sitting over there at the Café Central?” Mr. Bronshtein took the name Leon Trotsky, and did.
For Jews, Pinsker argues, the investment in the café as a social institution was, across Europe through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, particularly intense. The great cafés were “thirdspaces,” neither entirely public nor entirely private; they were escape zones where, contrary to the theme from “Cheers,” people often didn’t know your name, or what shtetl you hailed from. A patriotic Polish writer could meet other Polish patriots at a Warsaw café, read the papers, make plans, share poems, or just decide to flee to Paris. A Jewish writer in the same café had first to decide just how Polish to appear, and just how Jewish to remain. This affected how he dressed and whom he sat with, but also which language he wrote in, Yiddish or Polish, and what he chose to write about as he sat there.
I earlier called Pinsker’s perspective pointedly European, but his narrative does travel west, to New York City.
[I]n New York, as café culture was exported, the model of the central café in which all kinds come together often gave way to the neighborhood café that belonged to a subsect, usually on the political left. Emma Goldman, as a young Russian immigrant, found herself at home in New York when she arrived at a Lower East Side café that was well known as an anarchist hangout. The melting pot of New York, curiously, produced the most distinct and separate crucibles, each annealing the complexities of identity into political causes. In every case, you could see your life in a single commercial space.
How different all this is in the 21st century. Did the activist that would occupy Zuccotti park first meet in coffee houses? Why do I not think that question would apply to Trumpenistas? Do Emma González and David Hogg, too young for bars, drink espressos? Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez tended bar, but did she hang out in coffee shops?
And dare I ask, is Starbucks—whose former chairman and billionairethinks he can run the United States of America the way he ran the ubiquitous purveyor of bad coffee adult milkshakes—the anti-café?
Bonus No. 1: When the boots wear out, will anyone be ready to listen?

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